ANN RUPPENSTEIN
A few minutes with Arlene Nash Ferguson is all it takes to learn about the significance of Junkanoo, the vibrant and colourful cultural festival that makes the streets of downtown Nassau come alive in the wee hours of Boxing Day and New Year’s Day.
From her childhood home, the founder of the Educulture Junkanoo Museum shares how the important celebration originated when enslaved Bahamians were given three days off to mark Christmas.
“They said, let’s use our precious three days to recreate our festivals from home. It’s time to renew the spirit, and in case anybody tries to stop us, we will wait until tonight. So, 200 years ago in the dark of the night Bahamians said man, we survived, let’s celebrate life and they told their children never to forget,” she says. “Right up to Christmas gone, and god willing Christmas coming, we who are their children, we continue to do it today. It’s called the Junkanoo Festival, it’s the National Cultural Festival of the Bahamas.”
Nash Ferguson has been taking part in Junkanoo since she was four years old and can be found today speaking enthusiastically about her lifelong passion, the history and community spirit behind its elaborate, handmade costumes for school or tourist visits.
“Nine o’clock Christmas night we shut down Bay Street, hit the road dancing by the thousands to the music of drums and bells,” she shares. To this day she notes that costumes are still made from layering paper, a defiant nod to the fact that slaves weren’t permitted to read and write.
“Our costumes are still made out of paper, going on in the West African tradition of layering one teeny weeny strip at a time. We have already started the process for [next] Christmas. We work all year on these costumes just to be on Bay Street for a few hours dancing,” she says, adding that there’s a separate costume for the New Year’s Parade. These days young members of her family are helping to keep the tradition alive, joining in the celebration.
While clients may initially be drawn to Nassau and Paradise Island for the warm weather, white-sand beaches and turquoise waters that don’t need to be enhanced with a filter, it’s experiences like this that make for a more meaningful getaway. And with new nonstop flights from Montreal and Toronto on Porter Airlines, alongside expanded service from Air Canada and WestJet, there’s never been more flight options for clients to experience all that the destination has to offer.
In addition to learning about Junkanoo, another memorable way for travellers to dig a little bit deeper into Bahamian culture and history is to spend the day at Clifton Heritage National Park, located on the western end of New Providence.
Here, clients can snorkel right off the shore to come face-to-face with a surreal underwater coral reef sculpture garden. The park features pieces like Ocean Atlas, believed to be the world’s largest underwater sculpture, weighing 60 tons and rising 18 feet from the seabed. Nearby natural reefs and man-made reef balls help ensure that the coast is teeming with sea life. Movie buffs will also want to see the remnants of an old prop plane used in the filming of Jaws: The Revenge.
Back on land, there’s the Sacred Space exhibit, a powerful series of wooden sculptures dedicated to enslaved African women. Visitors can also take part in a heritage tour to learn about the historic sites on the property and the Lucayan and Loyalist people who used to live on the land.
Along the way, a guide will point out plants that were used for food and medicine as well as sites like the Banana Hole, a natural limestone sinkhole, while sharing how the area was almost paved to make way for a tourist development.
Escape the hustle and bustle
Clients looking to unwind while visiting on a day trip by ship can take advantage of Graycliff Hotel & Restaurant’s Escape Nassau package. Guests can enjoy a signature welcome cocktail, feast on a three-course lunch and unwind poolside in a serene setting for the day before heading back to the cruise port.
Alternatively, travellers staying on island can also head off-resort to Graycliff for a special fine-dining experience. Known for serving celebrities from Billy Joel to Beyoncé, the historic property has made a name for itself as a go-to spot for a five-star meal in Nassau. The longstanding establishment also has an impressive wine cellar with 250,000 bottles and offers cigar and chocolate making tours.
British Colonial Nassau is a historic, newly restored Bahamian resort with a legacy dating back over 100 years. The iconic Bay Street property features 288 redesigned rooms and suites, a private white-sand beach, two freshwater oceanfront pools and multiple dining outlets. James Bond fans may recognize the landmark hotel from the 1983 film Never Say Never Again.
Visitors can kick off the morning at the British Colonial Trading Company, a grab-and-go coffee bar offering lattes, baked delights and breakfast bites. At the Mahogany Club, the tuna and grits appetizer and the short ribs with Bahamian macaroni croquettes are just some of the tasty options for dinner. The most happening spot to be seen is Woodes Rogers Tavern, with a notable happy hour. There’s live music on weekends and a variety of hand-crafted cocktails on offer.
For an off-property option, head to Arawak Cay (or The Fish Fry as it is referred to locally) on West Bay Street, which is home to a variety of authentic Bahamian restaurants, serving traditional dishes like conch salad, conch fritters and baked macaroni. Be sure to try the dangerously delicious Sky Juice (Gully Wash) made from gin, coconut water and condensed milk.
British Colonial Nassau is a great option for clients who are looking to stay in the heart of the action, within walking distance to attractions, distilleries and breweries in downtown Nassau. For clients who want to experience Junkanoo firsthand, the hotel has a prime location.
The beachfront overlooks the Nassau Cruise Port, making for a fascinating spot to watch the ships come and go every morning and night. To make the most out of enjoying the warmer Bahamian weather, consider upgrading to a suite with a balcony.
Spanning 35 acres, The Ocean Club, A Four Seasons Resort, Bahamas is an idyllic luxury beachfront property on Paradise Island. The resort’s 107 accommodations range from spacious rooms and suites divided between the Hartford Wing and the Crescent Wing, to two-bedroom plunge-pool bungalows and private beachfront villas.
The resort, including the Martini Bar where longtime bartender Keith Cash has created made-to-order cocktails for nearly 40 years, served as a prime filming spot for Casino Royale, starring Daniel Craig as Bond. Have a martini like the Vesper or the passionfruit chili—shaken, not stirred—like Bond.
For families, there’s a lagoon pool with a waterfall and mini loungers perfect for kids. Another stunning option is the 125-foot infinity pool perched above the shoreline. But the showstopper has to be the elegant, adults-only Versailles pool that gives way to views of the gardens and a 12th-century French cloister. Naturally, for those who prefer to be oceanside, attendants are also on hand to set up loungers and umbrellas along the picturesque white-sand beach.
For a bit of pampering, clients can arrange a spa service in one of eight Balinese-style villa treatment areas that come complete with a daybed, shower and outdoor jacuzzi tub. The soothing and skin-nourishing Coconut Poultice Massage features a heated coconut compress rich in vitamins E and K that’s applied to pressure points to release tension.
Overlooking the Atlantic, DUNE by Jean-Georges is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a menu by Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Highlights included the yellowfin tuna tartare, the red snapper crusted with nuts and seeds, and the warm banana cake with a praline crunch, served with ice cream.
For those looking to head out and explore, the resort offers complimentary bicycle rentals to guests on Paradise Island. Daily activities like pilates classes are also available.
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